Ever since I learned about the Manu Biosphere Reserve years ago, I knew that I would go. The Amazon has always attracted me and Manu is reknowned for it's biodiversity, some say more diverse than Galapagos, due to the fact that it encompases a wide range of biotopes, from mountains and cloudforest in 3500 m to low land, 200 m, tropical rainforest in the Amazon basin, and covers an area about half the size of Switzerland.

Visiting Manu, day by day

DAY 1 - DAY 2 - DAY 3 - DAY 4 - DAY 5 - DAY 6 - DAY 7 - DAY 8 - DAY 9

Photos will be added later.

Tour operator

Only a handfull of guides and agencies are certified to enter the reserve. Non-certified agencies might arange your tour through another agency, go only to the cultural zone or visit some nearby private reserve. I chose to go with Pantiacolla Tours, which is recommended by other travelers.

I booked a 9 day/8 night tour going in and out by bus, in the rainy season flights are grounded so this is the only option, and also the cheapest. Going by ground has the advantage of driving through the entire range of biotopes, from moutain zones and tropical cloud forest to low land tropical rain forest. But evidently, for many it is the tropical rainforest and Manu river that is the destination.

Even though the visited area is limited, a lot of time is spent on the river going up and downstream by boat. This quickly becomes boring, in particular with the engine running at full speed, even if the boat stops when wildlife is spotted. But, travel by boat with the engine at max is the only way to go upstream in reasonable time and comfort.

We spotted two jaguars which is very lucky, they had not seen any for a month, both were spotted on the shore of the Manu river going by boat. Seeing a jaguar is usually the highlight of the tour, but it was somewhat an anticlimax: We were going quickly by boat and suddenly somebody said jaguar, the boat stopped and we would all get the cameras out, get the photos and when the jaguar left, back on full speed again. There was no waiting in silence with patience, then the jaguar appearing, etc. In stead we were stamping loudly into its territory, not really that romantic an experience.

Pantiacolla could improve the tour: They could reorganize to win at least a half day more in the reserve and spend less time on the river. Only two nights were spent in the reserve itself. I think the itinary is the same for all agencies though. A request for a walk at dawn was rejected, and we had no night walk in the reserve. I did my own trek at dawn and spotted a poison dart frog. My guide had told me that there were none.

When you go into the Amazon, you either go for adventure or to learn, or better both. In Manu the restrictions of the reserve means there is no adventure, we walked on well throdden paths, and slept in established lodges. Our guide was the adventurous kind, I found his knowledge inconsistent or vague on a number of isues.